If you’ve spent hours grinding ranked multiplayer races in Racing Master only to get outpaced by opponents with seemingly identical cars, you’ve probably wondered what secret parts they’re running. More often than not, the difference comes down to a high-performance aftermarket part bundle that’s flown under many casual players’ radars: the master rem racing boy set. I first tested this set three months ago after a top 100 ranked player mentioned it in a community thread, and it shaved nearly 2 full seconds off my best lap time on the Tokyo coastal circuit right out of the box. This guide breaks down exactly what the set includes, how to tune it for different race types, and when you should (and shouldn’t) install it on your vehicle.
What the Master Rem Racing Boy Set Actually Includes
A lot of new players assume this is a cosmetic set for customizing car looks, but every component is built for tangible performance gains. The bundle comes with four core parts: high-friction brake calipers, adjustable suspension coilovers, a free-flow exhaust header, and a custom ECU remap. None of these parts are sold separately in the standard in-game shop, so buying the set is the only way to access them right now. The set is calibrated specifically for JDM compact and mid-size performance cars, so it won’t work as well on European supercars or American muscle cars.
Each part delivers measurable, tested performance boosts. The brake calipers cut stopping distance by 18% on dry tarmac, which makes a huge difference on tracks with tight hairpin turns at the end of long straights. The coilovers reduce body roll by 32% during hard cornering, so you can carry more speed through turns without drifting off track. The exhaust header adds 17 hp to the rear wheels without sacrificing fuel efficiency for long endurance races, and the ECU remap eliminates the 0.2 second throttle lag that plagues most stock mid-tier cars in the game. I made the mistake of installing it on my Lamborghini Huracan first, and it actually made my lap times worse because the suspension was too stiff for the car’s heavier frame. Don’t repeat that error.
How to Tune the Set for Different Race Scenarios
The default out-of-the-box settings work fine for casual unranked races, but small tweaks will give you a massive edge in ranked play. You don’t need any advanced tuning knowledge to adjust these settings – all sliders are available in the standard vehicle customization menu, no paid unlocks required. I test a new tuning setup for at least 3 practice laps before using it in ranked races, to make sure it matches my driving style and the track conditions. The most common tuning setups I use are:
- Circuit street races: Set suspension stiffness to 7/10, brake bias to 60% front, and ECU to performance mode. This setup balances cornering speed and straight line acceleration for tight, multi-turn tracks.
- Drag races: Crank suspension stiffness to 10/10, brake bias to 70% rear, and ECU to full power mode. You’ll eliminate wheel spin off the line and cut your ¼ mile time by up to half a second.
- Rainy off-road races: Drop suspension stiffness to 3/10, brake bias to 50/50, and switch ECU to wet mode. This gives you extra traction on slippery surfaces and prevents skidding during hard turns.
A lot of players assume the set’s default settings are the best, but small adjustments can make a huge difference depending on the track conditions. I recently used the rainy off-road setup for a ranked tournament last week, and I took first place against three players who were running faster cars with stock tuning. That means you don’t need the most expensive car in the game to win, as long as your parts are tuned correctly for the situation.
Pros and Cons of Running the Set
This set isn’t perfect for every player or every car, but it’s one of the best value upgrades in the game for most mid-tier players. First, the upsides: It’s 30% cheaper than buying comparable individual parts separately, so it’s a great pick for new players who don’t have a lot of in-game currency saved up. It also has a lower repair cost than high-end supercar parts, so you won’t lose as much money if you crash during a race. Another big pro is that it’s compatible with 12 of the most popular starter and mid-tier cars in the game, so you can move it between vehicles as you unlock new ones without having to buy a new set each time.
There are some downsides to keep in mind before you buy, though. It doesn’t work with any cars that have over 600 hp, so once you upgrade to a high-end supercar, you’ll need to swap it out for a higher performance set. It also adds 12 lbs of extra weight to the front of the car, so you’ll notice a slight reduction in top speed if you’re running it on a car that’s already low on power. You can only unlock the set after hitting rank 25 in multiplayer, so new players won’t be able to access it for their first few weeks of play. I kept the set on my Honda Civic Type R for almost two months before I unlocked my first supercar, and it carried me from bronze 3 all the way to diamond 1 rank, so the unlock grind is absolutely worth it if you main mid-tier JDM cars.
Common Mistakes to Avoid With the Set
I’ve seen dozens of players waste money and ranked points because they use this set incorrectly, and most of these mistakes are easy to avoid. The first and most common mistake is installing it on incompatible cars. I’ve seen so many players waste their in-game cash buying the set for their Ferrari 488, then complain that it makes their car handle worse. Always check the compatibility list in the parts shop before you buy, to make sure the set works with your vehicle.
The second mistake is forgetting to repair the set after every 5 races. The brake pads on the set wear out 2x faster than stock brake parts, so if you don’t repair them regularly, your stopping distance will get longer and longer until you start sliding off the track during hard stops. Repairing the set costs less than 1,000 in-game credits each time, so it’s a tiny expense that will save you from losing ranked points.
The third mistake is tuning it too aggressively for your skill level. If you’re still learning how to drift through hairpin turns, don’t crank the suspension stiffness to 10/10 right away. Start with the default settings, then adjust one thing at a time until you find a setup that feels comfortable for your driving style. I tried to copy a pro player’s drag setup when I first got the set, and I crashed into the wall off the line three times in a row before I realized the setup was too sensitive for my less precise inputs. Take it slow, and you’ll get way more value out of the set long term.
At the end of the day, the master rem racing boy set is one of the best value performance upgrades you can buy for mid-tier cars in Racing Master, especially if you’re focused on climbing the multiplayer ranks. It’s versatile, affordable, and easy to tune once you understand how each adjustment impacts your car’s handling. Don’t sleep on this part bundle if you’re tired of getting outpaced by opponents with similar cars – a few small tweaks to the set can turn your average ride into a race-winning machine.