I’ve spent the last four years racing supermoto at regional semi-pro events, and I’ve tested no less than seven brake upgrade kits over that time. I’ve dealt with everything from warped discs mid-race to total brake fade on 90-degree track days that left me braking 20 feet earlier than my competitors. It wasn’t until last season that I landed on a setup that fixed every one of my braking pain points: the moto-master flame supermoto racing kit. I’ve run this kit across 22 race days and 11 practice weekends so far, and it’s consistently performed better than any other option I’ve tried in its price range.
What Makes the Moto-Master Flame Supermoto Racing Kit Stand Out From Competitors?
First off, this kit doesn’t cut corners on materials the way many mid-tier racing brake kits do. The core of the setup is its two-piece floating brake disc design, which uses a high-carbon steel rotor mounted to a 6061-T6 aluminum carrier. That design lets the rotor expand and contract evenly as it heats up, which eliminates the warping issues I had with cheaper one-piece discs after three or four hard track days. The moto-master flame supermoto racing kit solves that annoying front-end shake under heavy braking that forces you to back off mid-corner entry.
It also comes with sintered metallic brake pads that are formulated specifically for supermoto track use, not mixed street/off-road applications. I’ve tested these pads in everything from 40-degree sunny days to light rain on wet tarmac, and they grip consistently no matter the conditions. Unlike organic pads that lose 30% of their stopping power once they hit 300 degrees, these sintered pads hold their performance up to 700 degrees, which is more than enough for even the longest supermoto feature races.
The included precision-machined 6061-T6 aluminum caliper bracket is another small detail that makes a huge difference. I’ve used generic brackets before that required shimming to get the caliper aligned properly with the disc, which took an extra hour of work in the pits and still left small gaps that caused uneven pad wear. This bracket fits perfectly right out of the box, with zero shimming required for most 450cc supermoto builds from KTM, Husqvarna, and GasGas.
One thing I didn’t expect when I first bought the kit was how much weight it would cut from my bike. The full setup is 1.3 pounds lighter than the stock brake assembly, and that weight comes off the unsprung mass of the front wheel. That means your front suspension reacts faster to bumps and track imperfections, which gives you better grip when you’re trail braking into tight hairpins.
Step-by-Step Installation Tips for Optimal Performance
You don’t need a professional mechanic to install this kit, but there are a few small steps you can’t skip if you want it to perform as designed. I messed up my first install because I rushed through the prep work, and I ended up having to pull the whole setup apart between practice sessions to fix a wobble. Follow these pre-installation steps to avoid the same mistakes I made:
- Clean the wheel hub and caliper mounting points thoroughly to eliminate any rust, debris, or old thread locker residue that could cause uneven disc alignment. I use a wire brush and brake cleaner for this step, and I wipe every surface down with a lint-free cloth before I mount any parts.
- Use a torque wrench set to manufacturer specifications for all bolts – over-tightening can warp the disc, while under-tightening creates dangerous play during hard braking. Don’t just use a regular ratchet and guess at the tightness; a $20 torque wrench will save you hundreds of dollars in damaged parts and lost race entries.
- Bed in the brake pads properly over 20 to 30 gradual stop-and-go cycles before pushing the kit to full performance on track. You want to build an even layer of pad material on the disc surface, which eliminates squeal and gives you consistent stopping power right out of the gate.
The proper bedding-in process is the step most people skip, and it’s the number one reason I see people complaining about this kit being “grabby” or noisy online. If you skip bedding, you’ll get uneven pad transfer, which causes vibration and inconsistent braking feel for the entire life of the pads. I usually do my bedding on a quiet side street near the track, so I don’t have to waste practice time doing it on course.
The whole installation process takes about 45 minutes if you have all your tools ready, which is far faster than most competing brake kits that require custom modifications to fit standard supermoto frames. I’ve installed this kit on three different bikes for my teammates, and none of us had to make any major adjustments to get it working perfectly.
Real-World Track Performance: Pros and Cons of the Kit
I’ve run this kit through every possible track condition you can imagine, so I have a pretty good sense of where it shines and where it falls short. Let’s start with the good stuff, because there’s a lot of it. The biggest win for me is the zero noticeable brake fade even after 15 consecutive laps at full race pace. Last season, I raced a 12-lap feature on a 92-degree day, and my braking points were exactly the same on lap 12 as they were on lap 1. That’s a huge advantage when most of your competitors are having to brake earlier and earlier as their brakes heat up.
The brake feel is also incredibly linear, which means you can adjust your braking pressure with millimetric precision when you’re trail braking into corners. I used to have a brake setup that was either on or off, which made it hard to carry speed through tight chicanes. With this kit, I can apply just enough pressure to shift weight to the front wheel without locking up, which has cut my lap times by an average of 0.4 seconds per lap on my local track.
It’s not a perfect kit, though, so don’t go into it thinking it’s the right fit for every use case. First, it’s about 30% more expensive than entry-level supermoto brake kits from budget brands. If you only ride your supermoto on the street or to coffee meets, you don’t need the level of performance this kit offers, and you’ll be wasting money paying for track-specific features you’ll never use.
Second, the sintered pads are noisy when they’re cold. You’ll get a high-pitched squeal for the first minute or two of riding until the pads warm up, which can be annoying if you’re riding around residential areas. It’s not a safety issue, just a minor inconvenience that comes with using track-focused pad compounds.
Third, if you’re running an oversized front fender for off-road use, you’ll have to trim about half an inch off the bottom of the fender to keep it from rubbing on the disc carrier. It’s a quick fix with a pair of tin snips, but it’s something to be aware of if you don’t want to modify your bike’s existing parts.
Is This Kit Right for Your Supermoto Build?
At this point, you probably have a good sense of whether this kit fits your needs, but I’ll break it down simply to make the decision easier. If you race supermoto regularly, even at the amateur level, this kit is one of the best upgrades you can make for the price. The consistent braking performance and lack of fade will give you a tangible advantage on track, and it’s durable enough to last an entire season of hard racing without needing replacement parts.
It’s also a great option if you’re converting a dirt bike to a supermoto for track use. You won’t have to piece together a brake setup from random parts, and you’ll know everything fits and works properly right out of the box. I’ve helped two friends do dirt-to-supermoto conversions in the last year, and we used this kit for both builds with zero issues.
But if you’re only using your supermoto for street riding or casual off-road trips, skip this kit. You can get a perfectly good street-focused brake kit for half the price that will be quieter and work just as well for low-speed street use. You also don’t need this kit if you’re a brand new rider who’s still learning the basics of braking and cornering; you won’t be able to feel the performance difference until you’re pushing your bike close to its limits on track.
If you do decide to buy the kit, make sure you pick the right rotor size for your bike. Most 450cc supermotos run a 320mm rotor, which is the standard size included in the kit, but you can opt for a 300mm rotor if you’re running a smaller 250cc build. The smaller rotor cuts a little extra weight and is easier to modulate for newer riders who don’t need the maximum stopping power of the 320mm option.
At the end of the day, brake upgrades are one of the most impactful changes you can make to a race-ready supermoto, and this kit delivers on every promise it makes. It’s durable, consistent, and gives you the kind of predictable braking feel that lets you push your limits on track without worrying about brake failure or fade. If you’re tired of dealing with inconsistent braking performance that’s holding you back at races, the moto-master flame supermoto racing kit is an investment that will pay off in faster lap times and fewer mechanical headaches for seasons to come.