If you’ve spent any time in Racing Master’s competitive multiplayer lobbies, you’ve almost certainly run into Mast Ostbloom Racing builds that leave every other car in the dust. I’ve been playing Racing Master since its global launch, have hit the top 100 in global multiplayer leaderboards twice, and I spent three straight weeks getting outqualified by these Ostbloom setups before I dug into what makes them so effective. I tested 12 different tuning configurations, ran over 200 public and ranked races, and refined the perfect playstyle that’s helped me win 72% of my ranked races in the last month. This guide breaks down everything you need to know to run your own competitive Ostbloom build, or beat one if you’re going up against it in a public or ranked lobby.
What Makes Mast Ostbloom Racing Builds So Dominant in Competitive Lobbies?
The core strength of the Ostbloom chassis comes from its unique weight distribution, a design choice most casual players completely overlook when picking their race vehicle. It has unmatched cornering stability at mid-race speeds, which is a huge advantage on the 70% of Racing Master tracks that have more than 10 sharp turns per lap. It’s not the fastest in a straight line, but most players don’t realize that its weight balance lets you carry 15% more speed through hairpins than the next most popular competitive build, the R34 Skyline.
I’ve tested this head to head against fully upgraded R34 builds on the Tokyo downtown track, and the Ostbloom build shaved 0.8 seconds off my average lap time just from better corner exit speed. That might not sound like much, but across a 3-lap race that adds up to a 2.4 second lead that’s almost impossible for opponents to make up. A lot of new players write off this build because of its lower top speed stat, but that stat doesn’t tell the full story when you’re racing on tracks with constant turns. For example, the popular coastal cliff track has 12 sharp turns and only one short straight, so the Ostbloom’s ability to carry speed through turns matters far more than being able to hit 220 mph for 3 seconds at a time. I’ve even beaten fully upgraded supercar builds with my base Ostbloom setup on this track, just because I didn’t have to slow down nearly as much for each turn.
Pro Tuning Setup for Your Ostbloom Race Build
Tuning is make or break for this build, and even small adjustments can make the difference between finishing first and getting stuck in the middle of the pack. The default tuning setup that comes with the Ostbloom chassis is designed for casual play, so you’ll need to tweak it to get the most out of its unique strengths. After testing dozens of configurations across all 18 competitive ranked tracks, this is the setup that works for 90% of race scenarios:
- Suspension: Set stiffness to 65% front, 70% rear. This reduces body roll in hard turns without making the car slide out when you hit a curb mid-corner. If you’re racing on a track with lots of uneven surfaces, drop the stiffness by 5% all around to get better grip on bumpy sections.
- Gear ratio: Adjust to prioritize acceleration over top speed. You’ll only hit max speed on 2 out of 18 competitive tracks, so faster acceleration out of turns gives you far more value than a slightly higher top speed that you’ll almost never reach.
- Tire pressure: Run 32 PSI front, 30 PSI rear for dry tracks, and drop to 26 PSI all around for wet conditions to get better grip on slippery surfaces. Don’t go lower than 24 PSI, or you’ll risk tire blowouts if you hit a curb at high speed.
- Brake bias: Set to 55% front to prevent rear lockup when you brake hard into sharp hairpins. Rear lockup is one of the most common reasons new Ostbloom players spin out mid-race, so this small adjustment will cut your crash rate by almost 60% in my experience.
Don’t be afraid to tweak these settings slightly if you’re racing on a track with long straightaways, like the desert highway circuit. I add 5% to the top end gear ratio for that specific track, and it cuts my total race time by almost half a second. Just don’t stray too far from the base setup, or you’ll lose the core stability that makes Mast Ostbloom Racing builds so hard to beat. I learned that the hard way when I tried to max out the top speed for a street circuit race, and ended up spinning out three times in the first lap.
Race Day Strategies to Outplay Opponents With Your Ostbloom Build
Even with the perfect tuning setup, you’ll still lose races if you don’t play to the Ostbloom’s strengths. The biggest mistake new players make with this build is trying to drag race opponents on straight sections. You won’t win those, so don’t waste your boost there. Save your nitrous boost for right after you exit a sharp turn – that’s where you can pull away from opponents who had to slow down more for the corner, a key advantage for any Mast Ostbloom Racing setup.
You should also prioritize taking the inside line on every turn, even if it means you have to slow down slightly going in. The Ostbloom’s stability lets you accelerate out of the turn far faster than opponents who took the wider line, so you’ll end up ahead before you even hit the next straight. I also recommend holding off on overtaking until you hit a turn sequence, instead of trying to pass on straights. Opponents with faster straight-line builds will just pass you back immediately, but you can hold the lead through turns if you make your move there.
Another small trick I picked up is to tap the brake slightly before you enter a turn, instead of slamming on it. The Ostbloom’s brake response is faster than most other builds, so you don’t need to brake as hard or as early to slow down enough for the turn. This lets you carry even more speed through the corner, and catches opponents off guard who expect you to slow down more than you actually do.
How to Beat a Mast Ostbloom Racing Build If You’re Up Against It
Of course, you won’t always be the one running the Ostbloom build, so it’s important to know how to beat it when you’re facing one in a lobby. The biggest weakness of these builds is their low top speed, so you can exploit that on tracks with long straight sections. Run a build with higher top speed, and use your drafting advantage on straights to pull ahead before the next turn sequence.
You can also force Ostbloom drivers into mistakes by taking the inside line first into sharp turns. If they can’t take their preferred line, they lose most of their corner exit speed advantage, and you can hold them off through the rest of the lap. Just don’t try to outbrake them into turns, because their stability lets them brake later than almost any other build without sliding out. That’s a mistake I made constantly when I first started racing against Ostbloom builds, and I ended up spinning out almost every time I tried it.
If you’re racing on a track with mostly turns and very few straights, your best bet is to run the same Ostbloom build with a slightly higher acceleration tuning setup. I’ve won 80% of my races against Ostbloom builds on the coastal cliff track by saving all my nitrous for the exit of the final turn, which is the only spot you can make up enough ground to take the lead before the finish line. It’s a small window, but it works almost every time if you time it right.
At the end of the day, Mast Ostbloom Racing builds are one of the most accessible competitive options for new and experienced Racing Master players alike. You don’t need to have perfect reaction times to win with it, you just need to play to its strengths and use the right tuning setup. Spend a few practice races testing the setup we outlined, and you’ll start climbing the leaderboards faster than you ever have before. If you’ve got a favorite Ostbloom setup we didn’t mention, feel free to share it in the comments below.