I spent three weeks stuck in tier 2 of the Real Racing 3 Supercar Master Series last month, wasting 120 gold on unnecessary car upgrades and getting rammed off the track by aggressive AI more times than I can count. I kept using the same loadout that works for my career mode races, wondering why I couldn’t break through to the higher tiers that promise exclusive supercar blueprints and 500+ gold rewards for completion. It wasn’t until I stopped focusing on raw speed and tested every trick I could find from long-time RR3 players that I finally cleared the entire series in five days. If you’re tired of grinding the same races over and over with little progress, these tips will help you cut through the frustration and earn all the rewards this event has to offer.
What Makes the Real Racing 3 Supercar Master Series Different From Standard Events?
First, it’s important to stop treating this series like any other career or weekly event you’ve played before. The rules and difficulty balancing are completely unique, and many players get tripped up by assuming their usual strategies will work. Unlike standard races, all assists (traction control, stability control, anti-lock brakes) are locked off once you reach tier 3, so you can’t rely on the game to correct your mistakes on sharp turns. You can’t use your usual career mode loadouts here, even if they work perfectly for every other event in the game.
Opponent AI is also adaptive, meaning if you win three races in a row, the AI cars will become far more aggressive, targeting your rear bumper on turns and cutting you off on straights to force you off track. The series also has a weight penalty system that makes heavy supercars with high PR far less effective than lighter, more agile options. I learned this the hard way when I brought my maxed Bugatti Chiron to a twisty street circuit, and got passed by three cars with 15 lower PR on the first three turns. The weight of your car matters twice as much in this series as it does in standard races, so raw power won’t win you most matches.
There’s also a mix of AI and real player opponents once you reach tier 4, so you’ll have to adjust your strategy for both predictable AI patterns and unpredictable human players who might brake check you on the final lap to steal first place.
Pre-Race Prep: Car Selection and Tuning That Works Every Time
The first mistake most players make is picking the car with the highest PR rating for every race. PR doesn’t tell the full story in this series, and choosing the right car for the track type will get you far better results than picking the most powerful option you own. For street circuits with lots of hairpin turns, mid-engine supercars like the Porsche 918 Spyder or McLaren P1 will outperform heavier, higher-PR cars every time, thanks to their better cornering grip and faster acceleration out of turns. For oval tracks with long straights, heavier high-power cars like the Bugatti Chiron work well, but they’re almost useless on twisty courses.
Tuning is even more important than car selection, and small adjustments can cut your lap time by 2-3 seconds per lap with no extra upgrades. Lower your ride height by 15% for dry tracks, 5% for wet tracks to improve grip without bottoming out on curbs. Adjust your brake bias to 60% front for twisty circuits to avoid rear lockups on turns, and shift it to 40% front for ovals to reduce stopping distance on high-speed straights. You should always prioritize tire upgrades over engine upgrades first, because grip wins more races in this series than raw top speed.
If you’re not sure what upgrades to invest in first for your chosen car, stick to this priority list that I tested across 20+ races in the series:
- Stage 3 sports tires (minimum, stage 4 is ideal for wet conditions to avoid hydroplaning)
- Adjustable suspension tuning unlock to customize your ride height and stiffness for each track
- Brake upgrade stage 2 or higher to avoid lockups on hard turns and reduce stopping distance
- Lightweight body kit to cut 10-15% of excess car weight and improve acceleration out of turns
I tested 12 different supercars across all tiers of the series, and the Porsche 918 Spyder has the best balance of speed and grip for 70% of the tracks in the rotation, even if its PR is 10 points lower than more expensive options. It’s also far cheaper to upgrade than most limited-edition supercars, so you won’t waste as much gold if you decide to switch to a different car later.
In-Race Strategies to Beat Aggressive AI and Human Opponents
Once you’ve got your car tuned correctly, your race strategy will make or break your results. The biggest mistake I see new players make is trying to take first place on the first lap. The AI will almost always ram you off the track if you overtake too early, because they’re programmed to defend their position aggressively at the start of every race. Wait until the end of lap 2 to make your first overtakes, when the AI has spread out and is less likely to group up to block you. Drafting behind an opponent for 3 seconds gives you a 10% speed boost on straights, so use that to pass 2-3 cars at once on long straightaways instead of trying to overtake them one by one on turns.
Always defend your inside line on hairpin turns – that’s where 90% of overtakes happen in this series, both from AI and human players. If you’re in first place, position your car on the inside of the turn as early as possible, so opponents can’t cut inside you to pass. If you’re trying to overtake, wait for the leading car to take the outside line, then cut inside on the turn to take the position without getting rammed.
For multiplayer races in tier 4, keep in mind that most human players will brake check you on the final lap to make you spin out, so leave a 1-car-length gap between you and the leading car until the last 100 meters of the final lap, then use your draft boost to pass them before the finish line. If you do get hit from behind and spin out, don’t hit the reset button immediately – you lose more time resetting than you do correcting the spin if you’re going under 80 mph. Just turn into the spin and accelerate gently to get back on track as fast as possible.
Another small trick I picked up: if you’re stuck behind a group of cars on a narrow track, tap the brakes slightly to let them pull ahead a little, then use your draft boost to pass all of them at once on the next straight. Trying to squeeze between two cars on a turn will almost always end with you getting pushed off the track and losing 5+ seconds of time.
How to Maximize Rewards Without Spending Real Money
You don’t have to spend real money on gold or premium upgrades to clear the entire series and earn all the exclusive rewards. There are lots of small tricks to earn extra gold and parts without paying a cent, if you know where to look. Complete the daily series challenges first before grinding tiers – they give bonus gold, exclusive customization parts, and 2x reputation points that you can’t get anywhere else. I made the mistake of grinding tier 4 for two days first, then realized I missed three daily challenges that would have given me enough gold to max out my Porsche’s tires 48 hours earlier.
After every race win, you have the option to watch a 30-second ad to double your rewards. It might seem tedious at first, but if you do this for every race, you’ll earn twice as much gold and parts, which cuts your grind time in half. You can also replay the final tier race three times a week to earn 20% of the original reward each time, which is a great way to farm extra gold for new car upgrades after you’ve cleared the entire series.
If you’re short on gold to upgrade your car, you can use the series’ rental car option for the first three tiers, instead of spending gold to upgrade a car you don’t plan to use long-term. The rental car has a slightly lower PR than the recommended PR for each tier, but if you use the tuning and race strategies we covered earlier, you can still win every race with it, and save your gold for a car you’ll use in other events too. Just note that you can’t use the rental car for tier 4, so you’ll need to have at least one upgraded supercar ready for the final tier.
Also, don’t waste your gold on premium repair parts. You can wait 10 minutes for your car to repair for free between races, instead of spending 5 gold to fix it immediately. Unless you’re in a hurry to grind races in a small window of free time, waiting for free repairs will save you hundreds of gold over the course of the series.
The Real Racing 3 Supercar Master Series doesn’t have to be a frustrating grind if you take the time to prep your car for each track, adjust your racing style to fit the unique rules, and play smart instead of just fast. I went from being stuck in tier 2 for three weeks to clearing the entire series in five days once I applied all these tips, and I still use them every time I replay the series to farm extra gold. The exclusive supercar blueprints and 500+ gold reward for completing the series are well worth the effort, and you don’t have to spend a cent of real money to get them if you follow these steps.